Things I’m Learning, Things I’m Loving

As I’ve spent more time in North Macedonia, and now that I’m in my third week of Pre-Service Training in my host community, I’ve been able to gain a deeper insight into the culture and the people around me. Since my language skills are still developing, I’ve often felt like a fly on the wall. But being a fly on the wall has also given me the opportunity to simply observe and notice the little things that make everyday life here so interesting.

I want to preface this by saying that none of these observations or differences from the U.S. are meant as criticisms of North Macedonia. Instead, they are things I’ve noticed and learned about a culture shaped by traditions that are passed down through families, learned from parents and grandparents, and celebrated through everyday life.

MY Observations and What I’m Learning:

1. No shoes inside!

When you go to someone’s home, it is common to take off your shoes at the door. There are often house shoes or slippers available to wear inside. The same idea applies to the gym. At my gym, you are expected to bring a separate pair of clean shoes to wear inside rather than wearing the shoes you wore outdoors. If you don’t have an extra pair, you can wipe the bottoms of your shoes with disinfecting wipes before going inside. Keeping outdoor shoes separate from indoor spaces is an important part of keeping homes and other indoor spaces clean.

2. Elephants in the house!!!

On my first day at my host family’s house, I noticed five elephants sitting on a bookshelf. I asked how to say “elephants” in Macedonian, and after showing my host family some pictures I took in Tanzania, I didn’t think much more about it.

That was until I visited another family’s home and noticed little elephant decorations there, too. Then I saw them in another house. At that point, I thought, elephants in three houses cannot be a coincidence.

I soon learned that слонови (slonovi), or elephants, are sometimes given as housewarming gifts and are associated with protection and good fortune in the home. So apparently, the elephants I kept noticing had a little more meaning behind them than I realized!

3. No wet hair!

During orientation, I heard another volunteer mention that their host mom made sure they dried their hair after showering. My first thought was, that’s interesting. I soon found out that I, too, would be handed a blow dryer and reminded to dry my hair after a shower.

There is a common belief here that going outside or staying in the house with wet hair can lead to getting sick. The babas (grandmothers) especially do not seem to joke around about wet hair and illness!

I’ve also learned about promaja, or a draft created when air flows through an open window or between two open windows or doors. Many people here are cautious about drafts and associate them with getting sick, experiencing pain, or other health problems. It is definitely something I’ve become more aware of while living in a Macedonian household!

4. Lunch time!

Lunch is often the biggest meal of the day. Ручек (ruchek) typically happens sometime between 2:00 and 4:00 p.m., depending on everyone’s schedule and what is happening that day.

At my host family’s house, lunch usually includes a lot of food. Some of the things that have made regular appearances at our table include:

• Shopska salad – tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, salt, and olive oil, usually topped with cheese

• Cabbage with balsamic

• Bread! Lots of bread.

• Сирење (sirenje) – a traditional Balkan cheese that is soft and crumbly, similar to feta

• Red and green peppers

• Meat and rice – usually pork or beef in our house. Right now, my host dad is drying about 100 pounds of pork for the winter!

• Манджа (mandža) – a type of stew or cooked dish

Meals can also happen in several stages. You might start with salad, bread, cheese, and other foods, with rakia, a homemade spirit, available for those who want it. Then more food comes out, often including the "main" dish such as meat, pizza, or another cooked meal. Wine or beer might also be enjoyed with the meal if you choose. And, somehow, there always seems to be more food and dessert!

Another thing I’ve noticed is that meals at home are very communal. Food is usually placed on the table for everyone to share, rather than each person receiving an individual plate of everything. It is also not uncommon for someone to eat directly from a serving dish, especially when going back for seconds or thirds. In a casual family setting, this can even be seen as a sweet sign that someone really enjoys the food.

5. Light switches are on the outside of the room!

In many homes and buildings I’ve been in, the light switch is located outside the room rather than inside. This has definitely made me pause a few times when I walk into a dark room, only to realize the switch is on the other side of the door!

6. Presents are given in odd numbers!

I’ve learned that presents for living people are typically given in odd numbers. So when you give someone a gift or bring something to someone’s home, you might bring one or three things rather than two.

Even numbers are traditionally associated with people who have passed away. For example, flowers brought to someone’s grave are given in even numbers. It’s a small cultural detail, but one I probably never would have thought about before living here!

Some of my current favorites:

Favorite drink: I’ve been loving the cappuccinos from my host town! I’ve tried a few different cafés, and they have all been around 80 denars, which is about $1.40 USD.

Favorite food: Ajvar!!!! Ajvar is a very popular spread made primarily from red peppers and eggplant. It is especially popular to make in the fall (NOW!!!), and making it can be quite the process. Families will spend hours, sometimes 3–4 hours, stirring huge pots of ajvar outside. It smells absolutely amazing! Once it’s made, it is stored and enjoyed throughout the winter and can last for months.

It is SOOO good on bread, especially with сирење (sirenje), a white soft, crumbly cheese. I could eat this at any time of day and be very happy!

Favorite Macedonian word: Глупости (gluposti), which means “nonsense!” This word gets used a lot in my house, usually in a very joking way because there is always some kind of joke or nonsense happening! It often gets followed by Леле (lele), which can mean a lot of things depending on the context, but in this case is basically a very enthusiastic “Oh my goodness!” or “So silly!” These two words have quickly become some of my favorites because they usually mean lots of laughter.

Favorite part of everyday life: I’ve been loving coming home after language class and going to the gym without really knowing what the rest of the day will look like. I know food will probably be involved, but I don’t know if there will be company, if I’ll end up going on an unexpected adventure with my host family, or if I’ll have some quiet time to myself. I’ve really enjoyed not always needing to have a plan.

I’ve especially loved sitting around the table with people who were strangers to me but are family members or friends of my host parents, communicating through a mix of my developing Macedonian and English, showing each other pictures, and lots of smiling!

Another highlight has been the past two Thursdays when the other volunteers came over and we played cards in the backyard. It has been so much fun getting to know the other volunteers better while having that little sense of ease and familiarity, just sitting around, learning a new card game, laughing, and enjoying each other’s company.